While visiting the Tuscan hilltop town of Montepulciano, we dropped in on Césare Mazzetti, a third generation master coppersmith and an Italian treasure. The Vatican Museum features one of his copper plates and his renowned copper pots and pans, marketed by his Rinomata Rameria Mazzetti Company, are hard at work in top flight restaurants from New York City to Hong Kong. The jovial Signor Mazzetti treated us to a private tour of his workshop filled with anvils, hammers of many shapes and sizes and forges. He was especially proud of his many antique stamps and dies passed down from his father and grandfather. He demonstrated some of the techniques of his trade and then described the history of some of the pieces in his family museum. As a surprise departing gift he made family copper plate mementos for each couple commemorating their marriage dates, children and grandchildren. Wow!

We have met up with four close friends and seasoned Italy fans. Our host, Niek, from Holland, owns a lovely, spacious villa near Perugia that we are delighted to offer to our travel guests. (see our Italy itineraries). Our goal is to develop an itinerary for guests who would wish to rent Niek’s beautiful villa. Yesterday we toured the cellars of the Lungarotti fine winemakers. Last night was cooking lesson night as Letitia and Lydiana of the Agriturismo Malvarina near Assisi put us through our paces. We learned how to prepare authentic Umbrian farmhouse dishes including stuffed rabbit, gnocchi, fried artichokes, fresh pasta made with spinach, fried dough with mushrooms, dough-wrapped spiced pears and more. Following two hours of cuisine prep we enjoyed our farmhouse meal by the warm glow of the fireplace….a perfect evening.

Over the past five days we visited 27 hotels in Venice and Rome. While we had studied their websites and customer comments ahead of time, the collection was like that proverbial box of chocolates…each a surprise in some respect. We saw spartan monastic…luxurious retreat…functional elegance…modern reserved…neighborhood casual bed and breakfast….and the occasional bordello look-alike. While different in ambiance, age, size, location and price points, they all shared a common trait…all were highly recommended by our suppliers. The reality is while their styles may not appeal to everyone, there are customers out their who enjoyed each hotel. We came away as always with a strong appreciation for those in the hospitality trade who go out of their way to make each guest feel welcomed. Not all rated hotels are the same. Matching clients to properties is still very much an art form. We went to school this week so we may be of better service to you for when you plan your Italian adventure.

​From an indoor pool to several rooftop terraces with panoramic views of the Eternal City, we were delighted by several surprises during our visit to seven four-star hotels here in Rome today. The management teams were gracious with their time and hospitality. The hotels ranged in size from 38 to 111 rooms. All offered the typical collection of standard or “classic” rooms to deluxe, superior and suites. Some hotels were richly appointed and there were those with clean simple styles. From standard up to superior rooms were defined by their size and benefits such as balconies or city views. Several hotels offered adjoining rooms to accommodate extended families. Others had rooms large enough for three beds for parents and children. Most of the hotels were already heavily booked through the high season into June and then again in September and October. The bottom line was to book early but also to have a clear vision of the sort of room that most appealed to you so you are thrilled with the selection.

We continued our hotel inspection tour heading on to Rome via an ultramodern Trenitalia Frecciargento train from Venice to Rome. This seven car train offered four levels of service and made six stops enroute, reaching speeds of over 155 mph as we cruised south through Tuscany. The trip took all of four hours. Our two coach seats cost 160 euros, about $225.